Are you noticing that your toilet is wobbling, having leaks at its base or giving off some unpleasant odors? Then, it might be high time that you install a new wax ring, which is a seal between the bowl and the drain. Here are the steps to follow:
1. Secure The Tools And Materials That You Need.
The things that you will need to get the project started and completed include adjustable wrenches, toilet plunger, shop vacuum, replacement toilet mounting bolts, pipe wrapping tape and, of course, a replacement wax ring.
2. Drain And Remove The Toilet.
Cut off the water supply to your toilet at the shut-off valve that is located beside the toilet or at your main water source. Then, flush the water from the tank and sponge until it is dry. You can use a plunger to force the remaining water in the bowl down the drain, and again, sponge until it is dry. If you want to do this task more quickly, then use a wet/dry vacuum to empty the toilet tank and bowl.
Detach the water supply line hose from the tank and make sure to catch any water remaining in the line with a bucket. Loosen and remove the nuts that hold the toilet onto the floor, and if the bolts have rusted or corroded, you can first apply some penetrating oil, allowing it to seep over the threads for several minutes, before you loosen the bolts.
Lift the toilet. If your toilet seems too heavy to lift or you are working in an awkward space, consider removing the bolts that attach the tank to the bowl and moving them separately. Before you do the lifting, place some blocks on edge of the floor to hold the drain off, choosing an area of the bathroom that is away from the drain to give yourself some room to work. When lifting the toilet, do it carefully while keeping its base parallel to the floor. Set the toilet on the blocks and check the drain to see if the old wax ring is not left attached.
3. Install The New Wax Ring.
Wearing a pair of disposable gloves, remove and discard the old wax ring. Make sure you allow plenty of ventilation, as it can get smelly. Clean any remaining wax from around the toilet anchor flange and the drain on the bottom of the toilet with a plastic putty knife to be followed by a rag soaked in mineral spirits. Remove the old mounting bolts and check if there is damage to the flange. After removing the ring, plug the drain right away with a ball of an old towel or rags that is large enough not to fall into the pipe. Remember that not being able to plug the drain would allow toxic sewer gas to enter your house.
After you remove the old mounting bolts from the flange, check the component for missing pieces or cracks, and install any spacers or repair parts that are required before inserting the new bolts, as this can cause your toilet to fall over if not properly anchored down. If you have a broken flange, then the anchor bolt would also be useless, so you might want to install a flange repair kit.
Press the new wax ring into place around the raised ring at the bottom of the toilet drain on its underside. Make sure you seat it firmly enough to hold it in place, but do not press to a point that it will become out of shape. Now, you can lift the toilet with the bowl drain directly over the floor drain and then carefully lower it in place, ensuring that the mounting screws come up through the holes in the base. In a gentle manner, press and rock the toilet slightly to help the new wax ring form a tight seal.
After you have positioned the toilet base firmly against the floor, attach the nuts and washers that hold it in place. Tighten them just enough to keep the toilet from rocking and then add in the decorative caps. Stop tightening as soon as the nuts are snugly in place to keep the toilet from tipping. Keep in mind that too much torque can damage the drain flange or crack the porcelain.
Finally, apply some fresh thread tape to the tank’s inlet threads and re-attach the water supply line to complete the project. As a precaution, check the toilet base for leaks about an hour after flushing it to make sure that the ring has successfully formed a waterproof seal around the drain.
More Useful Tips
Every time you remove your toilet for some reasons, make sure you replace the wax ring seal. Basically, this component is made from a molded wax loop around a short plastic tube and is inexpensive, pretty foolproof and designed to fit almost any floor drain and toilet. It can also resist bacteria and mold, and retain their sealing properties after years of use. If your toilet wobbles even a little bit from side to side, you may have a broken toilet anchor flange, which means you have to get a flange repair kit.
When it comes to floors, replacing your sheet vinyl flooring with something thicker, like ceramic tiles, will create a gap between the toilet and the anchor flange, which means that you will need a flange spacer to fill the gap.
If you remove your toilet due to a leak at its base or water damage in the ceiling of the floor underneath, you should inspect the damage before heading to the hardware store. For one, you can determine whether you need to cut away the subfloor and replace it.
There you have it. By following the steps presented above and considering the relevant tips, you will be able to install a wax ring on your toilet bowl in no time!
When people see toilet bowl stains, they usually think that they’re brought about by urine and other body waste. This is usually true but, as a homeowner, you have to realize that many of these stains are also caused by the minerals that are found in hard water. These substances, which include calcium, iron, and magnesium, stick to almost all surfaces that they pass by. So, if you’ve been flushing your toilet for years, these minerals most likely have made their mark on your toilet and created unsightly layers of stains on the otherwise pristine surface.
Fortunately, these stains aren’t permanent, but you’ll need to spend elbow grease to remove them. If you’re ready to get started, here are some of the steps you can take:
1. Gather The Supplies You Need
It’s important to have everything you need on hand so you won’t leave the task just to track an item you’ve forgotten. You’ll need to have a pair of rubber gloves as well as a nylon-bristle brush or a pumice stone. You should also have the type of cleaning product you want to use.
2. Put On Your Gloves
Wearing gloves will help protect your hands from any bacteria in the water and keep you away from contamination. It will also prevent the cleaning product you’ll use from touching your hands and irritating your skin.
3. Turn Off The Water Supply
Before doing anything else, shut off the water supply valve to the toilet, then flush it once or twice. Doing this is standard procedure for almost any toilet-related task you do since it ensures that you won’t get swamped by an unwanted gush of water while you’re cleaning (or repairing) the toilet.
4. Ensure The Bowl Is Free From Water
Flushing the toilet should get the bowl’s water level below the stains. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to use a cup to remove water from the bowl until the water level sits below the mineral deposits.
5. Use Your Preferred Cleaner
If you decide to use a commercial toilet cleaner, read the directions and follow them to the last letter. However, if you want to minimize your exposure to chemicals, you can also opt for natural alternatives or at least less toxic products. One of your choices is good old soda like Coca-Cola and Pepsi, which contains enough acid to eat away at the mineral deposits and break them down. Just fill the bowl with soda, let it sit overnight, and brush the bowl the next morning.
You can also use vinegar and baking soda to remove the stains. Simply pour one or two cups of vinegar to the bowl and sprinkle a handful of baking soda; after 15 to 20 minutes, use your brush to scrub out the stains. You can also make a paste by mixing two parts of baking soda and one part white vinegar. Apply the paste to the stains, leave them for 30 minutes, then start scrubbing the deposits.
Use these tips now to remove mineral deposits from your toilet bowl and give your toilet a clean, hygienic look.
One of the most common domestic plumbing problems is a toilet that won’t flush. This can be annoying for many homeowners since they’ll have to put up with the hassle of using a bucket to flush the toilet. It can also be embarrassing if they have guests over and they have no way to flush the toilet.
If you’re having this problem at home, you first have to determine why your toilet refuses to flush. To help you get started, here are some of the causes of toilet flusher problems and their possible solutions:
The Flapper Isn’t Properly Seated
Your toilet works like this: the bowl is connected to the tank through a small opening, which is covered by a part called the flapper. The flapper, in turn, is connected by a chain to your toilet handle. When you push on the handle, the flapper lifts and allows water to gush through the opening to the bowl.
Unfortunately, the flapper can become unseated over time. When this happens, water will just leak steadily down your bowl instead of being stored in a tank and released when you push on the handle. Fortunately, you can easily fix this by simply jigging the handle a few times. If this doesn’t work, open the tank lid, locate the flapper, and manually re-seat it on the opening.
The Flapper Is No Longer In Good Shape
Flappers aren’t built to last forever so, if your toilet is several years old or if it’s been years since you replaced the flapper, you can bet that it has been warped or deteriorated by wear and tear. If this happens, don’t worry since you can easily replace it. Flappers are sold in most (if not all) hardware stores, so you only have to consult your toilet’s manual, determine what type of flapper you need, and purchase it from the store.
Once you have the new part, turn off the water supply and flush the toilet to remove water from the tank. Take off the old flapper, install the new one, and turn the water supply back on to see if the problem has been fixed.
The Toilet Chain Is Too Loose
As mentioned above, the flapper is connected to your handle through a chain. When this chain becomes too slack, it won’t be able to lift the flapper up when you pull the handle, which means that water can’t pass through the opening and flush the toilet. If this happens, the only thing you should do is to adjust the length of the chain so it becomes tight enough to lift the flapper whenever you need to flush.
The Toilet Chain Is Broken
Just like flappers, toilet chains can’t last forever and are bound to break at some point. When they do, they won’t be able to lift up the flapper and allow water to gush to the bowl. Luckily, buying a new chain is easy since it’s highly available in most hardware stores, and installing it in your toilet can be a breeze.
These are just some of the solutions that you can use to fix your toilet. If you’ve tried all of them but nothing has worked, it’s definitely the right time to call your plumber and let him have a look at the problem.
Over time flushing your toilet, its tank bolts might start to leak as the rubber washers used in it would wear out. Water leaks on the bolts and nuts, as well as on the floor underneath them, would show you that the toilet tank bolts need new washers. This means that you should replace the bolts, and possibly the nuts and washers, given that they are corroded or rusted. Here are steps you can follow to replace these components:
1. Drain The Toilet Tank Of Remaining Water.
First, you have to make sure you have cut the water supply to the toilet by shut off the valve that is located behind the toilet bowl. Empty the bowl completely by flushing the toilet, and using the adjustable wrench, pull clear the water supply line of the tank. You can get rid of the remaining water in the bowl by absorbing it with a sponge or a towel.
2. Remove The Lid Of The Tank.
When you remove the toilet tank lid, set it aside on a pile of towels or blankets and leave room for the tank.
3. Remove The Bolts.
Using an adjustable wrench, loosen the nuts from the bolts, and if they are stuck, you can get a helper to turn the bolts with the screwdriver from inside the tank, while you are holding the nut with the wrench. To make the job easier, you can apply some penetrating oil to loosen the nuts from the bolts and release them from the bowl’s housing.
4. Lift The Tank Off And Set It On a Padded Surface.
When the tank is heavy, it is best to get someone to help you with lifting the tank straight up and carrying it to the padded surface. Lay it down flat for safety.
5. Replace The Old Washers.
After completing the above-mentioned steps, extract the bolts from the toilet tank, making sure that you remove all the old rubber washers. Attach the new rubber washers following these steps:
Put one rubber washer on the bolt directly under the bolt head.
Insert the bolt into the tank bolt hole.
Put on the second rubber washer on the bolt on the outside of the tank.
Attach a new the bolt nut to the bolt and add the third rubber washer.
Add a new metal washer to secure the tank to the toilet bowl housing.
Replace the washers and nut on the second bolt in the same order.
6. Re-Install The Toilet Tank And Its Refill.
Raise the tank back over the bowl housing and reset the central tank gasket and bolts correctly. Fasten the bolts and then check that the tank is connected properly, staying perpendicular to the housing of the bowl. Reconnect and turn the water supply back on to refill the tank, ensuring that the lid is put back into place.
After some time you have completed the task, check the bolts for leaks, and if there is any, you might need to perform the task once again.
By following these simple steps, you will be able to fix leaking tank bolts. But if you see these solutions not working, it might be high time to tap on the expertise of the professionals.
Are you looking for a way to minimize or even stop condensation on your toilet cisterns? Well, this is definitely a problem that you should not overlook, as it can actually lead to other serious issues, such as rotting of your bathroom floorboards and carpets due to the constant drip of water from the cistern or water pipe in your bathroom or toilet. So, make sure you know the likely causes of condensation on your toilet cistern and pipework in your bathroom and the ways to solve such an issue. Luckily for you, we are here to guide you every step of the way. Here are things you should follow:
Box In The Pipes.
Boxing in the pipes in your toilet wherever possible can help with preventing condensation on your toilet cistern, which means that you should place some insulation inside the boxing. Take note that the humid air in the room can condense on the colder underside of the cistern, so insulation will make things better.
Add Hot Water To Your Toilet Cistern.
There are fittings available which add a little hot water to your cistern by the time cold water enters it after flushing, but these can be expensive and not cost-effective, especially if you are using a loo, which you would not use often. In a relatively small room, air can get quite warm, which carries moisture that will condense as soon as it hits a cooler surface. Take note that a toilet cistern is full of cold water, thus it has a cold surface. So, make sure you add hot water to this component once in a while.
Allow Sufficient Ventilation To Your Bathroom.
The purpose of this is to keep everything in your bathroom at a fairly equal temperature. The problem here is when you have a relatively smaller bathroom, so you need to make the surface of your cistern warmer, which can be accomplished in a simple way—using a yoga mat.
The Yoga Mat Method
First, you have to strip out the contents of your cistern after you have turned off the cold water and wipe it completely dry using a sponge or a rag. You can also use a hairdryer to warm up the inside. Cut the thin and dense yoga mat into sections that will fit on the inside of the cistern and stick them in place with a waterproof sealant or glue. Take note that the cistern’s inside needs to be completely dry for this to work properly. Basically, make sure all items fit together dry.
After you have done all the things mentioned above, you might need to reset your float valve, as the cistern would now hold a little less water. However, the mat would act as insulation on the inside of the tank, giving its exterior to warm up. Also, dismantling the cistern will give you the opportunity to insert an isolating valve into the pipe before you connect it to the cistern, allowing you to turn off the water to the cistern any time in the future. You can even get take the opportunity to replace the flushing mechanism with a dual flusher to save on water.
A toilet flange is a component that holds your toilet to the floor. It uses either a metal or plastic ring that can render your toilet unusable if broken. And if it no longer holds the toilet securely, it would cause the entire unit to rock, which can damage the wax ring seal.
Remember that a toilet flange is quite difficult to replace, but fortunately, it seldom needs replacement, and you can just get a repair plate, repair ring or a push-in replacement flange to fix it. Here are the steps to take for such a task:
1. Secure The Tools And Items That You Will Need.
When doing DIY home improvement projects, you should have all the things that you need at hand to avoid wasting time. When it comes to fixing a broken toilet flange, you should secure the following: adjustable pliers, wrench, Phillips screwdriver, slot screwdriver, screws, hacksaw, paint scraper, putty knife, repair plate, repair ring, wax ring, drop cloth and newspaper.
2. Turn Off The Water Supply And Remove The Toilet Bowl.
Of course, you have to turn off the water supply to your toilet to avoid spills and making a mess. There are many ways you can do this, including shutting off the valve in the street, turning off the shut-off valve you have in your house or unscrewing the water supply hose just behind the toilet. After doing any of these things, you should flush the toilet to empty the tank. Then, unbolt the toilet bowl from the flange with a wrench, lift it off (get help if it is too heavy for you) and set it aside on a drop cloth or newspaper in a secure area.
3. Remove The Toilet Flange.
Using a paint scraper or a putty knife, try to remove some wax remaining in the flange. You can also apply some mild detergent to make this task easier. Loosen the bolts securing the toilet to the flange and the floor, and then remove them. Clean the floor and the underside of the toilet, and then measure the sewer drain pipe’s inner diameter or take a photograph of it, so you will have information that you can use in case you need to replace the flange. If there are breaks in its tracks, you can simply fix it with a repair plate. It is also possible that you will need a repair ring or a push-in flange replacement, depending on the severity of the problem. If this is your case, then here are some things to keep in mind:
If your flange is broken, but is still securely bolted onto the pipe, you will need a spammer flange to replace the missing or broken pieces. This metal component is shaped like a half moon that you can attach by simply sliding it under a broken flange.
If your flange is attached to a stable floor, you might need to replace the flange collar. Since this piece of metal is thin, you can just place it on top of the old collar without having to take out the broken one.
If the flange collar is severely damaged, you will have to remove and replace it. To make it easier for you to break the old cast-iron flange, you can use a hammer and chisel. You can also use a power drill and attach an internal pipe cutter to remove a PVC flange inside the pipe.
4. Install The Repair Plate.
When installing a repair plate, you should remove the screws that hold the flange to the floor using a Phillips screwdriver. Then, pry up the broken track with a slot screwdriver just enough for the plate to slide.
5. Position The Toilet Flange.
Making sure that you have lined up the tracks of the flange and repair plate, drive the screws, which hold the flange, back into the holes from which you removed them. Take note that the screws will also go through repair plate’s holes, holding it to the flange.
6. Install The Ring.
If you are going to repair the flange with a repair ring, you can just leave it screwed to the subfloor. Then, you can simply slide the new ring on top of the old flange to fix the problem. Make sure you align the tracks and screw the ring through the offset screw holes to the subfloor.
7. Remove The Ring When You Are Using a Push-In Replacement Flange.
Before you use a push-in replacement flange, you have to remove the old ring by unscrewing it from the floor and cutting it with a hacksaw. Using a slot screwdriver and pliers, pry the metal away from the cut line until the ring is separated from the flange. If you have a twist-on tapered flange, you will see a rubber seal located on the outer part of the flange, which you need to insert into the existing pipe. Right on its outer edge, there is also a rubber seal that you have to pull up to secure the flange.
8. Install The Replacement Flange.
Insert the push-in replacement into the opening of the flange, push it down until it is flush against the floor and screw it down. Take note that, if you are using a replacement, it may make the opening for draining waste materials narrow, so it should only be used to replace a 4-inch toilet flange.
Replacing a broken toilet flange would likely require opening up the floor to expose the pipes. However, it is really just a minor issue that you can fix with a range of products to repair, rather than replace, it. But if your flange is really broken down to the pipe or in its cupped section, then it would be high time to replace it.
When fixing a broken toilet flange, it involves removing the toilet, so take this as an opportunity to also check the sub-floor for water damage. Repair any area that is soft or spongy, as it will not hold the toilet securely after you complete the work.
Toilet bowls are made out of porcelain and can be stained by white or yellowish deposits that build up, particularly caused by minerals in the hard water, such as calcium. Though this mineral-containing standing water would not directly damage your toilet’s plumbing system, the accumulated calcium will make your toilet bowl looking uglier with time and can even erode it. Also, take note that the deposits will become very difficult to remove as they age, and removing calcification from your toilet as soon as you notice them will make the job easier for you to do. Remove calcium deposits from your toilet bowl by following these steps:
1. Perform Some Preparation Work.
You do not have to drain your toilet bowl to carry out this task, but make sure you turn off the water supply to the toilet. Flush it to lower the water level and expose the mineral deposits. Then, liberally spray some distilled white vinegar to the calcification and let it sit for at least half an hour.
2. Scrub The Toilet Bowl.
Wearing rubber gloves, scrub the area that is affected with the calcium build-up with a stiff-bristled nylon toilet brush or a wet pumice stone. If this is able to remove the deposits, you can turn the water to the toilet back on and flush it to rinse the vinegar away. If this does not remove all the calcification, scrub off as much as you can and rinse the brush in the sink.
You can also scrub the calcification using a toilet brush that is poured with baking soda. If this worked, turn the water back on and flush the toilet to get rid of the residue. If not, rinse the brush and set it aside. If there are still some deposits underwater, use a plunger to force more water down the drain until all the deposits are exposed.
3. Wipe The Toilet Bowl.
Once the stain has come off, wipe your toilet bowl with a cloth to get rid of any residue that is left by the pumice stone.
4. Turn The Water Supply Back On.
Turn the water supply to the toilet back on and flush it several times to make sure any dirt is removed.
Cleaning your toilet bowl on a regular basis will prevent calcium deposits and other stains from settling in. And if the problem involves high content of calcium, then it is best to use a soft scrub cleaner.
Aside from vinegar and baking soda, you can also use commercial cleaning products that contain diluted hydrochloric acid, which is effective in removing calcification. Just make sure you follow the instructions stated by the manufacturer and open the windows to allow for enough amount of ventilation, and more importantly, wear protective goggles and gloves.
Also, do not combine commercial cleaning solutions that contain diluted hydrochloric acid with those that contain bleach. If you are using bleach for regular toilet cleaning, flush it first before you start cleaning with acidic products.
In general terms, a flange is a projecting flat collar or rim that is used as an attachment when assembling things. As for the toilet flange, it is fundamentally a metal pipe fitting that is attached to the toilet floor and adjoins the bowl to the drain pipe underneath the floor. When installed, it is placed on the floor over the hub that is in the pipe, and then the toilet is mounted right on top of it. For a sealer, a wax ring is placed between the bottom of the toilet and the flange, with the bowl being bolted onto it.
Now, there is a lot of reasons why you need to remove a toilet flange. For one, it should be done if your toilet bowl moves or rocks too much, which can easily cause damage to such a component. Also, it could get damaged if you are removing your toilet floor to do any re-decorating in your bathroom. Take note that a damaged toilet flange would result in leaks, which are really unpleasant in terms of both appearance and smell. All these things mean that it needs to be replaced. Here are the steps to take in raising a toilet flange:
1. Turn Off The Water Supply.
The first thing you must do is to switch off the water supply of your home, which you can do by either shutting off the master valve outside your home or in the street or switching off the shut-off valve that is in line with the pipes leading to your toilet. This will make sure that the water will not continue to fill up your toilet.
2. Empty Or Get Rid Of Any Water That Is Standing In The Toilet.
You should empty the water out of your toilet by pressing the handle to flush it. Because you have already turned off the water supply, the bowl will not fill up with any extra water. This is very important to avoid making a mess from splashes or spills.
3. Loosen And Undo The Toilet.
In most cases, the toilet is fixed to the floor with two nuts that are located on each side of the toilet. Remove these nuts and make sure to keep them safe, as you will need them by the time you are going to reinstall the toilet. If it is very difficult to loosen and remove, given your toilet is quite old, then you can saw them off. However, this method will require you to do some drilling later on.
4. Remove The Toilet.
Once you have managed to remove the bolts, you can then start rocking the toilet. Take note that the toilet is sealed against the flange with a wax seal, so it may take you some time before it will come away. After you have removed it, put it somewhere safe in the bathroom or in another area in your home. Also, remember to lay it on top of a towel or put it on the carpet outside the room.
If your toilet is one type that is too heavy for you to easily lift alone, you might need to get help from someone to be able to lift it straight from the wax ring. Take note that, if the wax ring gets damaged or if it is inadvertently shifted, your toilet could leak after you replace it.
5. Remove The Wax Ring.
Wearing a pair of disposable gloves, remove the wax ring. Wearing gloves is essential, as things can get extremely sticky because they could be under your toilet for a very long time, which also means that you need to allow plenty of ventilation. Using a plastic putty knife and a rag soaked in mineral spirits, clean the remaining wax from around the toilet bowl anchor flange and the drain on the bottom of the toilet. Remove the mounting bolts and check the flange for any cracks, damage or missing pieces.
After you remove the wax ring, make sure you plug right away the drain with an old towel or ball of rags that is large enough that it does not fall into the drain pipe. Remember that an unplugged drain will allow harmful or toxic sewer gas to enter your home.
6. Clean The Toilet Flange.
Clean any wax that could remain around the toilet flange and remove the screws that are fixing it to the floor. And again, keep the screws in a safe place, as you will need them for replacing the component later on.
7. Remove The Toilet Flange.
When removing the flange, the method you are going to use will vary depending on the type of material it is made of. The most common method for this task is either using a dremel tool to break the pipe by cutting into it or breaking the glue that bonds the pipes using a certain type of solvent. When cutting the pipe, how you position the cut will depend on the area of the damage. But most ideally, you should cut it off at floor level, so you can easily fit the new connector inside the pipe later on. If you are using solvents, you should take proper measures because these chemicals could eat away at the pipes. When choosing from the many different types of solvent that you can use, go for one that will work on the glue used on your pipes, but not on the pipes themselves. One product that is often recommended is the all-purpose adhesive remover, which should be able to break the bond between your pipes without you having to worry about the pipes getting damaged.
Tips on Re-Installing Your Toilet
If you are not able to fix a rocking toilet by tightening the bolts of the flange, the most probable reason would be that the flange is not able to hold down the toilet. If you find that the component is so broken up that you cannot use a repair kit, you need to replace it. Installing a new toilet flange can be a very straightforward project.
Almost all of the common toilet problems can be fixed by installing a Fluidmaster repair kit that you can get from your nearest home depot or hardware store. These issues can include, but not limited to:
Leaks from the tank into the toilet bowl due to a faulty flapper valve
Leaks from the rubber gasket between the tank and the bowl
Leaks from the bottom of the tank due to corroded bolts
Fill valve refilling the tank every few minutes
Toilet lever not flushing properly
Toilet that constantly runs
Leaks from a worn out flush valve gasket
Leaks from the tank’s supply line gasket
Now, do you want to know how to install this repair kit? Here are the steps:
1. Secure the tools needed for the installation, including a pipe wrench, pair of pliers, bucket, sponge, pair of scissors, a bucket and a hand saw.
2. Familiarize yourself with the repair kit’s contents, check out the instructions sheet and then assemble the necessary hand tools. As you will see, the kit comes with a new flush valve assembly with adjustable flapper valve, fill valve assembly, rubber fill tube, flush lever, new gaskets, and new tank bolts with nuts and washers.
3. Turn the toilet’s water supply off. Then, remove the tank lid and flush the toilet to drain out most of the water. You can remove the rest of the water using the sponge and bucket.
4. Pull off the old rubber fill tube from the flush and fill valve and detach the flush chain from the tank lever and the flapper valve. Unscrew the plastic nut that secures the flush handle and lever.
5. Move to the lower-left bottom of the tank to loosen the coupling nut securing the water supply line to the threaded shank on the fill valve. Then, unscrew the lock nut on the bottom of the fill valve and pull it out from the inside of the tank. You should also loosen the nuts on the bolts located on the underside of the toilet bowl using a crescent wrench or pliers. Carefully lift the tank off the toilet to be rested on top of the lid.
6. Pull off the rubber gasket from the bottom of the flush valve, and then push the old tank bolts out and unscrew the plastic flush valve collar nut to lift flush valve out. Locate the white coupling nut, white lock nut and black shank/cone washer that come grouped together on the white fill hose angle adapter, and separate then from each other and lay them aside.
7. Push the larger shank washer onto the threaded bottom of the new fill valve with the tapered side facing down, and then push one end of the new rubber fill tube onto the plastic nipple near the top of the fill valve. Place the new fill valve from the repair kit with the shank washer and rubber fill hose that is attached into the rear left corner of the tank. Make sure you secure new fill valve in place with the white plastic lock nut.
8. Finding the new flush valve assembly, remove the new rubber gasket, plastic collar nut and the cardboard shipping ring on the rubber flapper. Make sure you cut the overflow pipe to the correct length, and then insert the new flush valve into the center of the tank, securing it in place with the white plastic collar nut.
9. Slide the new rubber gasket over the flush valve with the tapered side facing towards you, and then lift the tank and carefully place it back on top of the toilet. Place the rubber washers inside the tank over the bolt holes and insert the new tank bolts through the rubber washers. Tighten everything up just enough not to crack porcelain parts.
All you have to do after completing these steps is to see if there are no leaks in any area of your toilet.
A well-maintained and tidy bathroom can minimize your morning chaos, not to mention that it is indeed a pleasure to be in. While bigger plumbing jobs are best left to the hands of professionals to avoid costly disasters, minor repairs, such as slow toilet drainage or blockage, can be completed DIY style. Regular maintenance will keep your bathroom looking great, while keeping you away from serious water damage and costly repairs.
As for slow water drainage, this problem could be caused by a build-up of hair, grease or soap in the U bend, sometimes called the trap, under the toilet. This part of the toilet contains water to prevent sewer gas from entering your home. Aside from this, it is also designed to trap solid matter that can cause blockages.
If you think that your toilet drain is not totally blocked, you can try a homemade cleaner that contains a cup of white vinegar, half a cup of baking soda and about 4 liters of boiling water. Pour down your toilet and repeat the process multiple times if necessary. This should break down any build-up.
If this technique does not work, it means that you have a solid blockage that needs to be removed by dismantling the toilet U bend. Follow these steps to successfully complete such a repair work:
1. Dislodge Smaller Blockages By Plunging.
If there is water backing up into the basin, remove some to a level that is just enough to cover the plunger’s cup. Position the plunger over the drain and then vigorously pump in a straight up and down motion for at least 60 seconds to dislodge small blockages from the U bend.
2. Dismantle The U Bend.
If the previous step did not work, then position a container under the U bend, as you will have to dismantle it. Wrap the nuts on both its sides with masking tape and loosen them with a pair of multi-grips. After you remove the U bend, pour the excess water in it into a container.
3. Clean and Reassemble U Bend.
Using a coat hanger, remove the blockage from the U bend, scrape gunk from it and then clean it thoroughly with a bottlebrush and detergent. You should also smear its screw threads with petroleum jelly before replacing to make it easier for you to remove it next time.
4. Re-Install The U Bend.
Reattach the U bend the same way you removed it, and then test out your toilet. Try to see if there are leaks around the connections and that your toilet drains smoothly. If it is still problematic, then you might have a problem further down the line that requires a professional’s attention.
Tips on Getting a Plumbing Service
When you call in a plumber for help with your clogged toilet, make sure you have some information available to help him diagnose the problem quickly. You can mention how long you have been noticing the problem and what you did to fix it, noting any changes. Also, do not hesitate to ask him some relevant questions before he starts to work, like the cost and the length of time the process would take.