An Atwood RV water heater can have a plethora of problems. The age of the appliance, how extensively it is used and how well it is maintained will obviously influence the frequency and nature of problems you would have from time to time. This Atwood RV water heater troubleshooting guide discusses the common problems people face and how they can be resolved. By no means is this an exhaustive guide highlighting every possible issue that you could face. Despite being comprehensive, it is not possible for everyone to resolve the problems even if the recommended troubleshooting steps are adhered to stringently. It is best to call in a professional technician or plumber if you fail to remedy the problem.
1. Pilot Outage
One of the most common problems with Atwood RV water heater is pilot outage. This can happen if you have a weak gas control magnet or if the thermocouple needs to be replaced. For poor pilot flame you would need to replace the orifice. If it is not too old hen you can try cleaning the orifice and see how it goes. A blocked U-tube can also cause pilot outage. Clean the tube and get rid of any obstruction there is. You should check the gas pressure and ensure it is in accordance with the recommendation of the manufacturer, in this case Atwood. Adjust the pressure. You should also check if the air adjustment is proper to ensure the correct alignment of the main burner. If not, then you should make necessary adjustments to have the right alignment. A weak thermocouple will need to be replaced, all connections must be tightened and if the pilot outage exists when the knob or button is released without any other obvious problem then consider holding the knob or button longer than usual.
2. No Spark on the Electrodes
There are simple solutions for this. Clean the electrodes to ensure they aren’t dirty and clogged. Secure the electrodes so they aren’t loosely attached to the main burner. Reposition the electrode you think is having a problem if there isn’t a proper gap. Any loose wire connection on the circuit board must be secured. If any wire is loose inside and if the insulation has cracked then the electrode should be replaced. The problem may also occur due to a defective circuit board. Have it replaced.
3. Gas Burner Not Igniting
It is possible the gas valve is malfunctioning and is not allowing gas to flow in. There may be no voltage which will trigger the electric spark. You may have to replace the circuit board or the solenoid valve and you would need to check the E.C.O. Loose wires on the E.C.O. could be the problem. You must check the burner orifice and see if it is blocked. Clean it and if that doesn’t resolve the problem then you should replace it. You must ensure the U-tube doesn’t have any obstruction, that the gas control is properly calibrated or you should replace it, the flame spreader must be properly aligned, any defective valve, electrode or the circuit board should be replaced.
4. Insufficient Hot Water
The water suddenly turns cooler and gets heated up sporadically. The inconsistent temperature can be due to many reasons. You may have a partially blocked U-tube or burner. The burner orifice holder, burner or air shutter may require adjustment. The temperature selector may have gone kaput. The thermostat may be defective. The flame spreader may be positioned wrongly or the bypass lever may be misaligned. There can be an issue with the pressure and temperature relief valve. You can easily have it replaced.
5. Soot Buildup
Soot is not a very common problem but when it happens the scenario is concerning. Not because it is a grave threat but because it is not every day you have such an issue. You must check the exhaust grille, air shutter or the valve and also check burner alignment. Always keep every component impeccably aligned, calibrated and clean. Check the gas supply, ignition, insulation of the electrode, the thermostat, the ground wire of the gas valve and grounding in general. Any issue in any of these components will cause or facilitate sooting. You can easily clean the components, align them correctly, tighten loose components, ensure proper grounding and adequate gas supply. Regular maintenance should anyway address all these issues proactively.
There are many other problems you could face with an Atwood RV water heater. Always refer to the Atwood RV water heater troubleshooting guide or manual you have from the manufacturer. Always call in a plumber, electrician or technician specializing in water heater repair if you think the problem and the remedy is beyond your deftness.
1. Error Code “F1” is displayed. The F1 error code indicates an error with the water heating. Check the heating element in the dishwasher for any possible damages. In case the heating element is damaged, replace it. Also, check if the heat of the water coming to the dishwasher is adjusted correctly. The heat level of the water should be at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit. If the heat level of the water is lower, adjust the heat level accordingly. Check the thermostat for any damages and make sure it is working properly. If the thermostat seems to be damaged, replace it. If the problem still persists, replace the main control board as it might have a defect.
2. Error Code “F2” is displayed. The water level is too high in the dishwasher. Check the water pump for damages. If the water pump is damaged replace the component. Make sure that the inlet valve is not letting in too much water. Adjust the valve based on your findings to set the right amount of water for your dishwasher. High water level can also be caused by a clogged drain. Check if the drain is clogged and remove it.
3. Error Code “F3” is displayed. There is a fault with the thermistor. Check the wirings of the thermistor for any loose wire. If the wiring seems to be correct, your thermistor might be malfunctioning. Replace the thermistor.
4. Error Code “F4” is displayed. An error occurred during filling. In case you find water in the tray under the dishwasher, check the motor housing, the tub, the drain hose or the door for any damages or clogs. Make sure the float is not broken or damaged. In case the float seems to be damaged, replace it. If the float seems to be undamaged, run a test cycle with the dishwasher while removing the lower access panel. During the test cycle, look for leaks. Once you have identified the faulty part causing a leakage or being damaged, replace it.
5. My dishwasher is overflowing. Check if your drain hose is placed correctly. Check the hose for clogs and clear it. In case you have a disposer installed, always run it before turning your dishwasher on to clean the drain system. Check for any blockages in the rear area of your dishwasher that could prevent your dishwasher from draining. Make sure you have loaded the machine properly and redistribute the load if needed.
1. The door will not close properly. Check your door seal for warps or tears and make sure your latch is not broken. Check if there is is anything that interferes with closing and remove it. In case the latch seems to be damaged, replace the component.
2. The door won’t open. Check if the plastic pins in the door latch are damaged or broken or if there is a loose latch. If the plastic pins are damaged replace the component, or tighten the loose latch.
3. It won’t turn on. Make sure that your machine is connected to electricity. Check if it did not trip the breaker. In case the problem persists, try restarting the washing machine by disconnecting it from electricity and waiting at least 1 minute before plugging it back. In case your washing machine still does not turn on, multiple parts might be affected and need to be replaced.
4. The machine is flipping the breaker. In case your control panel is erroring out and flipping the breaker, power your machine down for at least 5 minutes to reboot it. Turn your machine back on after rebooting the control panel. In case the problem persists, replace the control panel.
5. It won’t drain. Check your drain hose for possible clogs and remove them. To avoid future problems with draining, make sure that your next load does not include bigger food residues that might cause clogging. If the problem persists, check the float for any damages, or if it is filled with water. In case it is filled, there is a wrong water level to the dishwasher. Replace the float component.
6. It is leaking. The float is not indicating the water level correctly. Check the float for damages. If the float is damaged, replace the component. In case the problem persists, check for food residues or soap around the seal that could possibly be keeping the water in making your machine leak. Remove the residues to stop leaking and restart your cycle.
7. It’s noisy. A regular cycle will include noises. If your machine is not balanced or leveled correctly it can increase the level of noise. In case the problem is not related to installation, there might be something stuck around the motor making it wear out. Check for any residues or metal pieces around the motor. In case your motor is already damaged, replace it.
It can be quite troublesome when RV hot water heater issues arise, especially if you are traveling during the cooler months. We have some suggestions for common problems and troubleshooting so you can have a stress-free travel adventure.
Little or No Hot Water
There are a few things you can try if you are experiencing a lack of hot water:
• Check that the temperature is turned up high enough for your preference. • Make sure thermostat is positioned against tank and working properly. • Make sure the bypass lever and flame spreader are properly positioned. • Remove any obstructions that may be blocking the burner. • Make sure the hot water heater has not been bypassed.
Burner Won’t Ignite
This can be an issue with gas hot water heaters. Here are a few suggestions:
• Try cleaning the orifice. In some cases, replacing the orifice may be the best solution. • Make sure the main burner is not blocked. • Check the electrode, solenoid valve or circuit board for possible failure. • Check to make sure the gas valve is opening and all surrounding wires are secured.
No Pilot Light
Several reasons could prevent the pilot from lighting. Here are some of the most common causes:
• Low levels of propane. • Air in the gas lines. • Controls may be weak and need to be replaced. • Debris blocking the U tube.
Leaking Water Tank
Over time, it is not uncommon for tanks to develop leaks due to things like rust and erosion. When you notice leaks coming from the tank itself, it is time to replace the entire hot water heater.
Odor Coming from Faucets
If you smell a foul-smelling odor when you turn on the faucets, the water has probably set in the tank too long. It often has a rotten egg smell and is quite unpleasant, but it can easily be removed.
Turn on the faucets and allow the water to run until you no longer smell the stench. You will want to keep an eye on your grey water level, so not to overflow the tank during this process. Once the lines are clear, you will want to drain the water tank, as this water will have the same repulsive odor. Refill with fresh, clean water and you will be good to go.
Hot water heater issues are a common occurrence among RV owners; always use careful precautions when trying to diagnose your problem.
1. Error Code “CE” There has been an overcurrent in the motor’s electrical circuit. This was probably caused by a short circuit, a loose wire, a ground fault or by a power surge. Restart your washer by disconnecting it from electricity. Wait for at least 10 seconds and plug your machine back to start a new cycle.
2. Error Code “PE” Water level sensor error. Disconnect your machine from electricity and wait at least 10 seconds before plugging it back again. If the problem persists your water level sensor might be damaged and needs to be replaced.
3. Error Code “CL” The child-lock is set to active, the control panel is disabled. To deactivate the child-lock, press the child-lock button and hold it for at least 3 seconds.
4. Error Code “dE” The door was not locked properly. Disconnect your machine from electricity and reset it by pressing and holding the “Start/Pause” button for at least 5 seconds. Reconnect your machine and gently close the door. If the problem persists, your door latch might be damaged and needs to be replaced.
5. Error Code “dE1” The door cannot lock properly. Disconnect your machine from electricity and wait at least 10 seconds before plugging it back again. Make sure that the door is closed and locked properly. If the problem persists your door latch might be damaged and needs to be replaced.
6. Error Code “dE2” The door is closed but cannot be locked. Disconnect your machine from electricity and wait at least 10 seconds before plugging it back again. Make sure that the door is closed and locked properly. If the problem persists your door latch might be damaged and needs to be replaced.
7. Error Code “FE” The washer is overfilled. Disconnect your machine from electricity and close all water taps. Check your water valve for any damage. In case the water valve seems to be undamaged, start your machine and press the “Spin Speed” button and select “No Spin”. Press “Start/Pause” to drain your washer and restart your cycle. In case the problem persists, replace the water valve.
8. Error Code “IE” The washer cannot fill. Check your taps, hoses, and valves for damages or clogs and replace the parts accordingly.
9. Error Code “LE” The motor was locked. This can be caused by overloading. Disconnect your machine from electricity and reset it by pressing and holding the “Start/Pause” button for at least 5 seconds. If the problem persists, reduce the load and start a new cycle.
10. Error Code “OE” The washer cannot drain. Check your drain pump filter, drain hose and standpipe for any possible clog or kink and replace or fix accordingly.
11. Error Code “tE” Thermistor error. Disconnect your machine from electricity and wait for at least 10 seconds before plugging it back. Start your machine and press the “Spin Speed” button and select “No Spin”. Press “Start/Pause” to drain your washer and restart your cycle. In case the problem persists, replace the thermistor.
12. Error Code “UE” Unbalanced load. The washer became unbalanced by the small wash load, mixed fabric load, or bulky load filled. Redistribute the load manually or reduce it and restart the cycle.
A broken washing machine will make your home a complete mess. It needs to be repaired as soon as possible to allow everything to function properly. If your front – load washing machine is no longer working, there is probably a problem with the draining, the mechanism of the door, or it just won’t start. What you need to do is determine the real problem and then buy the broken parts and replace them. If you can’t do it alone ask for a help from a professional or from a friend. There are many online retailers that sell washing machine parts.
The Electronic Control Board
If the machine won’t start, consider checking the main electronic control board. If that is the real problem with the washing machine it is best for you to replace the whole part. It can be fixed, but you need to be an electrician who is very good at their job to fix the problems. So, if you can’t fix it buy a new electronic control board online and replace it immediately.
The Door Won’t Lock Or Unlock
Many people have problems with the doors of their washing machines. They find it really hard to open or close. As you can assume, this problem can be fixed but only if you know how to do it. There is a locking mechanism that allows the door to open and close. If the door can’t perform these operations, it means that there is a problem with the mechanism. You can replace the mechanism or the whole door. But sometimes there is no need to throw away the door.
In case there are draining problems, you need to check the drain pump that removes the water from the washer. The drain pump is part of the washing machine that has an expiration date and needs to be replaced from time to time. sometimes there is no need to replace the whole pump. Simply take it out and clean it by cleaning all the dirt that’s accumulated on the inside and fix the problems with the cables. If it cannot be fixed, it is time to buy a new one.
Motor Control Board
This is a part in a front – load washer that is responsible for controlling the speed of the motor as well as the spinning actions that the motor performs. So, if you notice that the motor is not working, the whole motor control board must be replaced.
1. “SPIN” light flashing or “BALANCING” is showed on the display The washer cannot spin properly. Rearrange the items in the load evenly and try resuming your cycle.
2. “LID LOCK” light is off and “SPIN” light is not flashing Check the options knob if it is pointing in the right direction. While you are turning the knob the machine should beep. In case there is no beeping sound, your options knob needs to be replaced.
3. “CANCELED” is shown in the control panel / two lights are flashing Select Drain & Spin to reset the system and clear the error. If the error persists, disconnect and reconnect your washer (wait at least 1 minute). In case you are still facing the same problem, seek professional assistance as more than 1 components might be affected.
4. “RINS” light flashing or “Po” is shown on the control panel There is a possible clog, as it took too long for the washer to pump out. Restart your cycle to try clearing the clog. If the problem persists, check your drain hose for any pinches. You can also disconnect the drain hose and check it for clogs.
5. My top load washer fills but does not agitate Check your sockets for power issues. In case there you are sure this is not power related, you need to reset your washer motor. To do this: disconnect your machine from electricity for 1 minute, plug your machine back. Lift and lower the lid 6 times within 12 seconds to reset your washer motor.
6. My top load washer does not spin Check your sockets for power issues. In case you are sure the problem is not power related check if the lid is closed properly. Reset your washer motor by disconnecting your machine from electricity for 1 minute. Once it has been plugged back, lift and lower the lid 6 times within 12 seconds to reset your washer motor.
7. My top load washer won’t drain suds Make sure the lid is closed properly. If the lid is closed properly and the problem persists, check the drain hose for clogs. Also make sure, that the machine is trying to drain more than 8 ft. higher from the floor, as the maximum pump height is 8 feet.
8. My washer is leaking If your front load washer is leaking in the front, it can be caused by soil and soap left on the door seal. Wipe the rubber door seal off. If your top load washer is leaking water in front, quickly unplug the device to avoid any possible electrical shock. This can be caused by to much suds which can occur by detergent overuse. If your washer is leaking in the rear, it can be caused by installation problems, hose leakage or plumbing issues. Check if your drain hose is installed correctly, look for signs of leakage. In case the standpipe overflows regularly it might be a household plumbing problem.
9. My washer is overflowing If your washer overflows during filling, the problem might be caused by a faulty water valve or pressure switch. The components need to be replaced.
10. My washer is leaking oil on the floor Oil leakage problems are connected with water transmission. Your water transmitter cannot be fixed and can only be replaced.
11. My top load washer won’t fill Check your sockets for power issues. In case you are sure the problem is not power related make sure that the water is turned on to the washer. If the issue persists, check if your water pressure is correct.
12. My washer drains and fills at the same time Make sure the house drain is at least 30 inches high. Make sure the hose is positioned correctly and it is not pushed down too far into the drain.
13. My top load washer moves and vibrates Unplug your device to avoid any potential electric shock. Make sure your washer is balanced and level. Unbalanced loads can also cause your machine to move and vibrate. In this case, stop the machine and redistribute the load manually.
14. Strange odor inside my washing machine Unplug your device to avoid any potential electric shock. Odors can be caused by leaving the lid closed when the machine is not in use. As the air cannot circulate, the mixture of air and moisture becomes stagnant. To get rid of the odor, fill your washer with hot water and set it for the longest wash cycle. Adding water softening additive can also improve your cleansing process.
15. My washer fills/drips when turned off In case your washing machine fills or drips water into the tub even when turned off the error might be caused by a faulty valve on the back of your machine. The component needs to be replaced.
Turning on and off works as lights flashes to indicate that the device is on, but the touch function is not working and there is no water:
First, clear the area underneath your sink to avoid any clogs or blockage happening, as you need to avoid anything touching the complex wiring.
Make sure that the water is turned on for your device.
If the problem persists, check your batteries. Pull them out for at least 30 seconds and reset the system.
Make sure that the wires are not touching any metal and are connected correctly. Look for any loose wires and adjust them to be in a position where they do not cross each other or touch anything that is metal.
Check the Color of the Flashing Light
If the light is blue, it indicates that the system is working properly
When the light turns slight red, it indicates that the batteries are low
When the light turns fully red, the batteries have been fully depleted.
Change the batteries to fix the error
If You Already Changed the Batteries and the Problems Persist
Check if both touch areas are affected or only one. If none of the touch areas respond to touch activation:
Disconnect your terminal from the batteries and make sure that your solenoid valve is connected properly.
Disconnect the solenoid from the battery pack and wait for at least 30 seconds for the solenoid to be reset. This way, you will have water, however, the touch problem might still persist.
Check if you have inserted the batteries correctly (positive and negative).
Plug the battery back to see if the problem has been solved and if any of the touch areas are reacting to touch activation.
If not, once again check if the cables are touching anything that is metal or crossing each other. If yes, adjust them.
Make sure, that the cable of the touch sensor and the cable of the handle are not touching each other as this could be blocking your touch system. Readjust these wires appropriately.
If Only One Touch Area is Not Properly Working
Check the wiring of the affected touch area and rearrange the wires properly.
In case the problem persists, seek professional assistance as more than one components might be affected and need to be replaced.
The Maytag Bravos washer comes with a built in diagnostic system. With a series of error codes that display the current issues experienced by your machine here are some of the most common error codes that display to help you with troubleshooting your Maytag Bravos washer.
1. Error Code “LF” (Code F30) Washer is taking too long to fill. Check the inlet hoses for any kinks or clogs. Make sure that both water faucets are turned on and check if the water pressure is correct.
2. Error Code “Ld” (Code F32) Draining takes too long. Check the drain hose or pump for any clogs. Make sure that the drain hose is not higher than 96″ reaching the drain pipe. Check if your drain pump is running correctly.
3. Error Code “uL” The machine is running an imbalanced load correction routine at the end of the cycle. Make sure your load is not unbalanced before starting your cycle. If the problem persists after the routine has stopped, open the lid and redistribute the load. Restart your cycle.
4. Error Code “oL” (Code F70) The washer could not start the wash cycle after filling. Check if your washer is overloaded, as it can drain the water and detergent. In case your washer seems to be overloaded, lower the load. Close the lid and restart the cycle.
5. Error Code “Sd” (Code 71) Suds detected. Make sure you use the right type and amount of detergent. Run a recovery cycle using cold water without detergent.
6. Error Code “lid” (Code F81) Make sure that your lid is closed correctly, or if anything is blocking the lid to be closed. Restart your cycle.
7. Error Code “Po” Lid was left open. The “Po” error flashes in case the lid has been left open for more than 10 minutes. Close the lid to stop the drain pump.
8. Error Code “HC” Hot and cold hoses have been switched. Rearrange them to fix the problem.
9. Error Code “dL” (Code F80,F82,F84,F85) The lid cannot be locked. Check for any possible items that might be blocking the lid from closing properly. Check the wires between the lid lock and the control board for any loose wires or damages. Measure the resistance level of the connection between the control board and the lid lock. If any parts seem to be damaged, replace them.
10. Error Code “F1” (Code F60-68) There is a primary control failure. Before replacing the machine control assembly disconnect the machine from electricity and make sure that all wires are connected properly. Try plugging your machine back and starting a cycle. If the problem persists, replace the faulty machine control assembly.
There are so many different options available when it comes to buying a water heater. In order to find the right water heater for you, there are some aspects you need to take into consideration. The biggest and most common problems that happen with water heaters are pressure and tartar.
The solution to these problems is to set a filter and a pressure regulator and both of these problems will permanently be removed. By doing this, you will protect all the other elements and appliances in the house, the washing machine, the dishwasher… But as usual, no one thinks of these things before. Water heater problems occur mostly because people do not pay attention before they buy or install the device. It is better to prevent it than to treat it later and spend hundreds of dollars.
How To Repair a Water Heater
If you are experiencing problems with the water heater the first thing you need to do is open it and clean it of the dirt that is collected in it. Regularly clean the dirt because dirt can prevent the easy flow of heat to the water which will consume more energy and will cost you more. You will need more time to heat the same amount of water and you will pay higher electricity bills just because of that.
It should be noted that there are modern electric water heaters that have built – in “dry” heaters and they do not have problems with dirt. So, next time before buying a water heater, consider purchasing a device that has many features available which sometimes ensures a longer lasting. Also, water heaters are usually made of stainless steel or enamel. It is always better to choose water heaters made of stainless steel because they are more durable.
What Is Economical Operation
A water heater with magnesium anode has so called plastic sleeves that serve to separate the installation of the anode. Pay attention to this and make sure that they are separated correctly. If not, call an electrician and ask them to fix the problem, it will definitely cost you less than buying a new one.
It is recommended to use a water heater that has an economical operation available and use it whenever you have a chance. With the help of the economical operation the temperature of the water will be between 55 – 60 degrees Celsius. Usually, we use hot water at the temperature of 40 degrees Celsius by mixing hot and cold water.