Firstly you must remove the old drain and prepare the new pop-up drain stopper. This is achieved by first removing the trap, using pliers (channel type preferably). Follow this up by removing any old pop-up systems that are in place. Use the same pliers as before or a wrench on the mounting nut to remove the old drain. Make sure that the sink is clean before you continue. Disassemble the new pop-up drain stopper and ensure that the new mounting nut is all the way down the pipe.
Step 2 (Optional)
This step is only needed if you are having trouble connecting the rubber section to seal to the bottom of the sink, if this is the case, apply some pipe joint compound to the rubber section of the washer, this will solve any problems with sealing the new pipe to the sink.
Apply either foam, silicone or putty to the underside of the top piece of the drain stopper, underneath the chrome ring, further aiding with the seal.
Slide the new drain through the opening under the sink as high as is possible, while holding the drain in the position, fit the aforementioned chrome ring into the sink. Screw the chrome thing to the drain, this only needs to be done by hand as it doesn’t need to be too tight.
Back underneath the sink, tighten the uppermost part of the drain while holding the drain in place, ensuring that the nut is facing away from you and towards the back of the sink. Make sure to use pliers and make the drain just tight enough that it cannot be moved by hand, but try not to go any tighter.
Place and then push the stopper into the drain, ensuring that the hole is facing away from you. Go back under the sink, with the ball on the inside of the nut, push the nut onto the pipe, push and pull the rod to ensure that it is working properly in the sink. Reposition accordingly and once completed, use your hand to tighten it into place.
Keeping the stopper open, feed the lever down through the hole next to the taps, connecting the lever to the rod below. Attach any straps and/or screws to the lever and ensure that it is tightly connected.
Connect the lever rod to the vertical drain strap, connect the trap to the pipe and proceed to fill and drain the sink in order to check for leaks.
One of the most critical appliances in all of modernity is the washer. Washers come in many forms, but undoubtedly, the two most popular forms of this appliance involve the trusty dish or clothing washing machines. These are two appliances that have revolutionized the way people live their lives, but in order to really maximize just how effective these tools are in the long term, it’s important to emphasize the most integral piece of the puzzle: the drain pipe. This is a part of the appliance that is critical to not only providing the proper amount of drainage, but it also enables people to engage and initiate the washing cycle. Here are the proper steps to installing a washer drain pipe.
Identify the Right Pipe
First and foremost, in order to properly install the pipe, you need to make sure you’re using the right one. Different appliances have different customizations, and all of them require the right retrofitted accessory to make it happen. This is very critical if you’re serious about getting the right drainage pipe. All too often, people think that any old pipe will do, but that’s simply not the case.
Assuming you know the model of your washer, you’ll be able to find out the right drainage pipe you need to install. Remember, it doesn’t matter whether or not it’s a dishwasher or a washing machine, any advice that relies on pumped-in water will use a drain pipe. But it’s very important to know this for a washing machine as they require greater amounts of water. Smaller appliances like dish washers, although dependent on drainage pipes, they require you to ensure that you’re using the right one to engage and fill the machine with the proper load of water. Any other load that is attempted to be used will simply not be up to par.
Find the Right Installation Method
There are multiple ways to conduct an installation. You could either install it yourself, and that is something that requires the right amount of adhesive. Most pipes aren’t soldered into place, but rather, they are adhered using an industrial level paste, which can be quite costly. Rather than trying to install it yourself (and thereby botching the process) simply buy the parts separately. Once you find the right pipe for your given appliance, contact a local handyman service, and they can very easily conduct and complete the installation of the drain pipe.
The pop up drain is definitely the preferred drain type for most of us, when it comes to our bathroom faucet. Believe it or not, but you do not need to be an expert on plumbing to learn how to install a bathroom faucet with pop up drain. Gathering a few simple materials together, you can complete the project in hardly any time at all:
At this point, you’re now ready to install your pop up drain.
Installing Your Pop Up Drain
Professional plumbers can handle installing a bathroom faucet with pop-up drain, or just installing the pop-up drain itself. Before you go in that direction, consider these steps:
• Start by removing any extra water from your sink, cleaning up the area in general. Dependent upon how much standing water you have, you can use a cup, or you can break out your wet/dry shop vac. Have a pan or bucket set up under your sink. • You’re now going to remove the original drain by finding the pop-up lift rod with the drain assembly, which you will find under your sink. Loosening the lock nut with your pliers, start pushing on your assembly, wiggling things around until you’ve loosened everything up. Residual water should come out at this point. Unscrew your pop-up ring at the top of your sink, which should cause your pop-up assembly to just come out from the bottom. • Removing any old caulk/putty from your drain hole, you will have putty placed around the bottom of your chrome ring along the top of your new flange. • Set up a pipe joint putty for the rubber washer of your bottom assembly. You will now start pushing your bottom assembly up along the bottom of your sink. Do this until the rubber gasket creates a good seal. • Screw your top flange in to your bottom assembly, which you should be able to find at the top of your sink. After tightening your lock nut on your bottom assembly, clean up any extra putty that comes out with your rag. • Put your stopper into the top of your drain, making sure your holes are facing the rear of your sink. Look for a ball and rod on your stopper unit, and thread it into your pipe. You may need to tighten the nut, but you may also just have to move your stopper around, until it connects with your rod. • Feed your lever through your hole in the sink, connecting your horizontal rod with your vertical lever.
Installing or replacing your dishwasher drain is pretty simple. With a few basic tools, you can handle this project on your own. Different dishwashers can have different demands, so keep in mind that these instructions pertain to replacing your current dishwasher drain hose with something more recent and more efficient.
Keeping that in mind, you will need the following tools to get started:
• Adjustable wrench • 1 Bucket • Pliers • Screwdriver • Rag • New drain hose for the dishwasher
Installing Your Dishwasher Drain Hose
Ready to get going? You won’t need a ton of DIY experience to handle this less-than-1-hour project:
• Cut your electrical supply. You can either remove the power cord from the socket, or you can cut off the circuit at the breaker. • Next, you’re going to remove your drain connection. You will likely find the connection around the drain itself. When you’ve found it, unscrew the nuts that are holding it into place with your adjustable wrench. • To get to the actual drain hose, you’re going to have to move the device. Loosening the screws will let you remove your brackets, which should make sliding the machine out a breeze. • In most cases, you can find the drain hose along the left-hand side of the bottom of your machine. Tracing it to the spot where it meets with the cabinet, you will set up a bucket beneath your drain hose connection at your sink, with a rag placed under your dishwasher connection to soak up any water that comes out of the hose. Use pliers to take away your current hose, squeezing the clamp to slide the hose out easily. • Once you have connected your replacement hose to your drain and dishwasher, you will begin clamping down your connector, ascertaining the hold of your seal. • Put the dishwasher back in its original place. Be careful with the wires as you move the dishwasher back, making sure not to get anything tangled up. If the wires get tangled up, it can be really difficult later on to replace the drain hose again. Make sure the brackets have been screwed back in, once you have moved your dishwasher into the proper place. • At this point, you’re almost done. Once you’ve reconnected your power supply for your dishwasher, you will want to test out the new drain. The best way to do this is to take your dishwasher through a quick, simple practice run.
Believe it or not, but it’s actually possible to install a toilet drain on your own. Even better, you don’t need a significant amount of DIY experience. You will simply need to be able to follow directions very carefully. Learning how to install a toilet drain is fairly straightforward, but there are still a number of elements to the project that must be kept in mind.
You’re going to get started by making your drain and vent systems are working correctly. You will also want to check local building codes, since these requirements can vary from one building to the next. Failing to install the toilet drain properly can result in costly, even dangerous mistakes. This includes a sewer gas leak.
After you’ve figured out where to seat the toilet, you’ll need to look for the simplest route that will end with installing the toilet drain properly. You will need to keep to the minimum slope for your pipe, and you will also need to make sure things are ventilated properly.
Toilet And Drain Pipe Locations
Ready to get started? Here are the basic steps for installing your toilet drain:
• Make sure you have a comprehensive understanding of both building codes and permit requirements. These codes/requirements determine not only the size of your drain pipe, but also the size of your vent. You may have to make an appointment for an inspection later on. • Find your main plumbing stack, which is located in the basement or crawlspace. Figure out where it goes through your home, and then figure out where the exit is on the roof. Not only should you look for where your large waste drain pipes are running, but you will also want to figure out which pipes you can use for venting. Finally, figure out your access point for the drain pipes, main stacks, and vent pipes connecting to your toilet. • Make plans for the possibility of opening walls and removing floors. With an integrated trap, you can prepare for direct drain connections with minimum bends. • Give yourself enough room for installing your sanitary tee, which connects to your main stack or combo fitting to connect with your horizontal drain. Make sure you also have a clear understanding of your building code, in terms of finding limits on toilet drain pipe length.
At this point, you’re ready to get started with installing the actual pipes.
Installing Your Pipes
Time to get the pipes installed!
• Cutting your pipes, you will want to assemble them without doing any actual gluing. This will ensure you’ve cut the proper lengths, and that they are going to fit. • Ensure the stack/current drain has firm support above and below where you plan to make your connection. Support braces are sometimes needed. Now, you’ll want to cut your existing pipe, before taking out a length equal to the length of your sanitary tee/combo fitting. • Do you have play in your current pipes to insert new fitting? If so, apply pipe cleaner and pipe glue (one and then the other) to your flange and your fitting. Inserting your fitting, you will need to twist it firmly into your flange. If you can’t move your stack/drain pipes, purchase a no-hub flexible coupling. Cut away additional lengths of your current pipe, making sure it is equal to the length of your coupling. After gluing your additional length of pipe into the upstream flange of your fitting. Next, slide your coupling onto your upstream existing pipe. Glue your fitting into position on your downstream pipe. Finally, you will slide your coupling over your joint, and begin tightening. • At this point, you’re almost done! You will need to start gluing your remaining pieces of pipes and fittings into the proper position. You will work your way from your main drain pipe to the location of your toilet. Every four feet or so, you’re going to want to provide support for your pipes with pipe straps. The final bend, which can be found upwards and under the toilet. Make sure this bend has proper support, as well. It should also reach high enough to allow you install your toilet flange correctly.
These are the simple steps that will take you through this project. As we mentioned before, this is a fairly straightforward project. You don’t need to have a significant amount of DIY experience for something like this, but a basic understanding of plumbing can prove to be useful. Use this article to give you an absolute understanding of what needs to be done. You may also want to consult other informational resources, which can serve to break things down even further.
In the end, if you don’t think this is the right project for you, remember that most plumbers provide services that include work such as this.
Installing a kitchen sink drain is usually a straightforward task. Even if you don’t have a lot of DIY experience, keeping up with the steps and instructions involved in learning how to install a kitchen sink drain shouldn’t be too difficult.
You will want to begin by assembling all of your supplies.
Installing Your Kitchen Sink Drain
You’re going to start off by gathering the following:
You’ll want to have the glasses on while working with the ABS cement and hacksaw. You will also want to keep in mind that ABS cement can cure within just a couple of seconds.
Once you have gathered all of these things, you can get started by making sure the hot and cold water have been turned off. You don’t want these things to go off while you’re working:
• Prepare the work area by cleaning up the area under the sink bowl, in addition to making sure the hot/cold water has been cut off. • Around your circumference of the hole in your sink bowl, begin applying a small beading of plumber putty. • Disassemble your drain insert. • The top half of your drain should be inserted into the hole of your sink bowl. • In order to compress the plumber putty, push firmly down. • Along the underside of your sink drain, you’re going to begin applying your rubber gasket, your cardboard ring, and your metal fastener. • Next, begin removing your extra plumber putty from inside your sink bowl around your drain.
• Begin to roughly install your drainage pipe, being careful not to glue any ABS pipes back on. • Install your ABS towards kitchen drain attachments along ends of ABS drain pipes when necessary. • Disassemble the current setup, and organize everything in the way you will install it later. • Install your drainage pipe. Start from your drainage pipe that comes out of the wall or floor, and begin to glue your pipe piece by piece. Remember to read ABS cements/cautions before using anything. • Prepare your brass drain attachment through the insertion of your pipe into your fastener. Have your plastic gasket laying inside your opening. • Insert your brass pipe into your ABS pipe-metal sink/drain connector. Make sure to tighten the brass fitting on your sink drain. • Finish gluing with the ABS drain pipes. • Tighten your sink/drain attachment. • Run your hot/cold water for five minutes to check for leaks.
Most of the installation work in your home can be done easily, and by researching on the installation procedure, you can get it done in a few hours. Installing and connecting the drainpipe of your bathroom sink is easy and you can do it yourself. Lucky for you, no matter what type of sink you may have purchased, the installation process does not differ much. In this guide, we look at a practical installation process of a bathroom sink drain.
Tools You Will Need
For a fast and time efficient installation process, you will need the following tools.
• Pipe Wrench or an adjustable spanner. • PVC drainpipe kit.
How to Install the Drainpipe
Bathroom sink drainpipe installation is an easy process provided you stick to the following installation process to fit the drainpipe.
• Open the provided PVC drainpipe kit and ensure that all the items listed there are inside. • Loosen the slip and coupling nuts from the old drainpipe and compare it against the new drainpipe to assess the diameter and the length and make the necessary adjustments then fit the new pipe to the attachments on the wall as well as to the base of the sink. • With the pipe wrench or adjustable spanner, tighten the female adapter onto the drain stub on the wall. • Slide in the slip nuts onto the drainpipe’s arm as well as the bathroom sink’s tailpiece ensuring to tighten the connection at the base of the sink with the pipe wrench. • Fit the provided P-trap in place and use the plumbers’ tape to ensure there is an airtight connection on all the joints on the drain assembly. • Place the provided washers on the pipe and ensure to stiffen them to avoid any leaks. • Hand-tighten the slip nuts then proceed to connect the flexible water supply pipes onto the sink’s faucet tailpieces and connect them to the specific shut off valves. • Use the adjustable spanner or the pipe wrench to tighten the coupling nuts. • Remove the faucet’s aerator turn on the water and let it run. • Check for leaks in the drainpipe assembly. If there are no leaks, tighten the joints with the pipe wrench. However, if you find any leaks, this means there are overwrapping threads at the joints, or you have not placed the washers correctly.
This is an easy installation process, and you as well watch YouTube videos on how to install the bathroom drain. If you are replacing a damaged drainpipe, ensure to buy one from the same manufacturer, or those that can fit into the opening at the base of the sink as well as the drain stub on the wall.
Drainage is important when it comes to the home. If water is not taken away from the property effectively, then it can lead to a whole multitude of issues ranging from rising damp to the weakening of the foundations and free standing water in the basement.
The easiest way to ensure that you don’t suffer from water pooling at lower levels is to install French drains. These are simple yet effective channels that will quickly remove any standing water and prevent damage occurring in your home and garden. So how do you install a French drain?
To begin with, you will need a few simple tools, such as a shovel, gravel, landscaping fabric and topsoil for covering over the drain.
Determine where you will have the water drain away too. Ensure that it does not encroach onto a neighbors property. You will need the drain to be on a downward slope for it to work properly. A slope that drops 6″ for every 50 feet ensure the best result. Mark the determined route with some spray paint.
Now you have your route planned, the next step is to start digging out the trench along the painted line. Ideally, you want this to be around 8 inches wide and no deeper than the nearest building foundation. Ensure that the trench slowly lowers as you progress to help carry the water away with ease.
Line the trench with a plastic landscaping fabric. This is usually used to prevent weeds from growing up through graveled areas and will prevent the gravel from being absorbed by the soil when it becomes wet. Once the fabric is in place it is time to start filling the trench with gravel. Ideally, you want this to be filled so that it is level with the ground surface.
You now have a working drain. Run a hosepipe at the starting point to ensure water flows away smoothly. If all works as it should, it is time to cover the gravel with another layer of landscaping fabric and place a layer of top soil on it to seal the drain and prevent debris being washed into it and causing blockages.
If you have a turfed lawn, simply place the turf back over the covered drain. The process is complete and you should now have a fully functional drainage system that will help keep your home and garden free from standing water.
A French drain provides a quick, easy and unobtrusive way for you to divert water away from the places you don’t want it. If you have a pond in the lower levels of your garden, it is a great idea to divert the drain to it as the water will contain nutrients and microbes that will feed your fish.
Standard tank water heaters can bring about stress on your pipes, due to the normal thermal expansion occurring over the course of the heating period. To that end, you may want to consider the value of a water heater expansion tank. Sometimes known as thermal expansion tanks, these products can bring a number of benefits to your space.
At the same time, it is important to research your options. Pressure damage on your plumbing system can create a number of short-term and long-term headaches, but you are still going to want to learn as much about hot water heater expansion tanks as possible. This would certainly include the subject of hot water heater expansion tank cost, as well.
Do I Need A Hot Water Heater Expansion Tank?
On-demand tank-less water heaters do not need to consider the value of a hot water heater expansion tank. Only tank-style heaters need to consider the potential threat of pressure damage on the plumbing system. Working as overflow receptacle, this product will work to absorb excess water volume, which is created through your tank water heater while it is working.
Thermal expansion expands water as it is being heated. This is something that is important to keep in mind. For example, when the cold water in a fifty-gallon water heater goes through the heating process, it will likely expand to fifty-two gallons. This is where the strain can come into play, and this is where the hot water heater expansion tank is going to prove to be invaluable.
Open systems rarely need to worry about expanding water, since it can be pushed back with relative ease. However, the closed water supply systems are not quite as fortunate. These one-way valves can run into a lot of problems with trying to push back the water to the city. Most cities require residential closed plumbing setups to include one of these expansion tanks.
In terms of cost, there are a few important things to keep in mind. Prices start at around forty dollars, but it can rise from there. The high-end price for these tanks tends to hit around the two hundred dollar mark. The amount of money you can expect to pay for one of these tanks is going to depend largely on the size you will need.
Finally, if you plan to hire a professional for water heater installation, talk to them about getting an expansion tank installed, as well.
Being hot or being cold? One of the questions for the ages but is there a better solution? How hot is enough and how can we be more effective when it comes down to setting the temperature in the water heaters. Simple searches (and reports by The Consumer Product Safety Commission) will let you know that having the temperature set on 120 F (or 49 C) is best for your home – but is it really that simple? One setting to rule them all – is our shower using the same temperature setting as the dishwasher for example? Here is more information about this topic and what should we stress on.
The 120 F Shower Rule
Different researches will show you that the regular temperature set in our homes should be 120 F or 130 F (especially for the United States). This is because of a small bacteria called Legionella. The bacteria is reportedly dying in 5 minutes or less if the temperature is above 122 F (growing if less than 108 F and just surviving if the temp is between 108 F – 122) F. Of course, we can try going over 140 F and the bacteria will die even quicker, but that is definitely not recommended as we would suffer as much as the bacteria itself. And this is not even mentioning the fact that by having a higher temperature set in our house, the electric (or gas) bill will rise as well.
Many studies show that showering with cold water is very beneficial to our body but yet – we still take long, hot showers. Let’s face it – who likes cold water? And wanting to have a normal (hotter) shower is part of being human. If the water heater is far from the shower, then we might need to set the temperature even higher.
The shower is not the only thing we need to think about when we are adjusting the water heater at home. Most modern dishwashers are generally set at 140 F by the manufacturers and they will be heating the interior as well. If you have an older model – please check the specifications. Most detergents are different, having different proportions and requirements, but there is a general rule with them as well – setting the temperature between 122 F and 140 F will deliver the most satisfying results from the dishwasher.