Bosch is one of the top names in appliances. To that end, if you have a Bosch dishwasher, it goes without saying that you own an exceptional piece of equipment in your home or apartment. Regardless of the specific Bosch dishwasher you own, you can be sure that you are going to have a dishwasher that will last for years and years to come.
Learning how to install Bosch dishwasher drain hose is just one element to your dishwasher. However, it is certainly something that should be taken seriously.
Installing Your Bosch Dishwasher Drain Hose
Here are the steps involved with installing your Bosch dishwasher drain hose. Your dishwasher drain hose can be connected to your drain plumbing in 1 of 4 different ways:
• You can attach it to your undersink dishwasher drain connection. • You can attach it to your disposer dishwasher drain connection. • You can attach it to your under-sink dishwasher drain connection. • You can attach it to your disposer dishwasher drain connection.
Your dishwasher drain hose needs to have one place along the length, expertly attached twenty inches above your cabinet flooring.
Before any of this can happen, you will also need to install your rubber drain hose adapter. First, get your rubber drain hose adaptor, along with 2 hose clamps from your install kit. Along one outside end of your rubber hose drain adapter, you’re going to find a raised rib. Put your drain hose inside the end that doesn’t have the raised rib. Make sure the drain hose has been fully inserted. Using Silver Spring clamps, you’re now going to make sure your connection has been properly secured. Finally, you are going to use the gold screw clamps to work at attaching your rubber drain hose adapter to your house plumbing.
There are obviously more specific elements to keep in mind with the actual attachment process. However, the above should serve to give you a clear idea of everything that will be expected of you. With the steps above, you should be able to determine once and for all if you are up to the task of installing one of these drain hoses for your Bosch dishwasher. This is not a particularly complex task, but if you have any doubts, don’t be afraid to consult a professional. At the end of the day, the important thing is that the work is completed properly the first time around.
If you are planning to learn how to install Kerdi Drain, you’re going to enjoy a number of appealing benefits. In the first place, Kerdi Drains benefit from being one of the most affordable options for drains on the market. In the second place, Kerdi Drains also have the benefit of being one of the most durable options for drains on the market.
Finally, Kerdi Drains are also available in several different types. If you are planning to handle installation of this drain on your own, this is one of the first things you will want to keep in mind. If you don’t have a ton of DIY experience either, relax. Chances are, you can handle a project such as this. Before the actual installation process can get underway, there are a few things you will want to understand.
Installing Your Kerdi Drain: Things To Start With
Schluter-brand Kerdi Drain products are classically-inspired, and they come in several different grate finishes. Regardless of what you ultimately purchase, you will be able to use something that can work nicely with a wide assortment of tile thickness possibilities. Regardless of the Kerdi Drain you purchase, you will be able to take advantage of an integrated bonding flange, in which your Kerdi Drain waterproof membrane is adhered to form a waterproof connection at the top of your tile assembly.
For those who want to work with something a little more luxurious, the Kerdi Line from Schluter is also worth checking out.
Here are the four main types of Kerdi Drain that you are going to want to keep in mind:
1. Kerdi Drain: These are floor drains with integrated bonding flanage. In terms of Kerdi Drain options, these are probably the most well-known.
2. Kerdi Line: This model refers to low-profile linear drains. As mentioned before, this is a good option for those who are perhaps interested in something that might be considered a bit more luxurious.
3. Kerdi Drain AC: These are commercial adapter kits that are capable of converting clamping ring drains to integrated bonding flanage.
4. Kerdi Drain AR: This is the residential adapter kit. With this kit, you are going to be able to convert a clamping ring drain to your integrated bonding flanage.
These are the basics that you are going to want to familiarize yourself with. There are a few more things to keep in mind, before you start the actual Kerdi drain installation process.
When it comes to companies that know a thing or two about shower drains, Oatey is definitely a name worth paying attention to. If you are planning to install one of their shower drains, keep in mind that you are taking advantage of something with a great reputation behind it. When properly installed, an Oatey shower drain is something that can be used for years and years to come.
In order to ensure the drain is properly installed, there are a number of elements to the installation process that you are going to want to keep in mind.
Tips To Install An Oatey Shower Drain
In terms of learning how to install Oatey shower drain, there are a few important things to remember. In the first place, take an assessment of your experience level with DIY plumbing projects. If you decide to go forward with installing the shower drain, use DIY/How-To videos that can be found on YouTube and elsewhere. Videos can provide you with a clear visual of your parts, the tools you’re going to need, and how things should look as you’re moving from one step in the installation process to another.
You will also want to keep the following things in mind:
• Remember that your drain comes with 2 washers. These are a fiber washer, in addition to a rubber washer. • If you have to install the drain with a fiberglass shower stall base, don’t worry. All you really need to do is keep in mind the order of installation. There is also the question of whether or not putty is appropriate to use in this situation. • To address the issues mentioned above, there are a few simple things you will want to do. You will want to begin by putting silicone under your strainer flanage. • Your next step will be to insert the strainer into the “inside hole” of your shower base. • From the bottom, begin installing the rubber washer against your shower base. The cardboard friction washer is going to be next, and this is going to be followed by the nut. • Remember that the nuts have a habit of coming loose, and they aren’t always going to be accessible after the installation has been completed. Your best bet in this situation is going to be to use a brass strainer. Barring that, you are going to want to use a pipe sealant on your threads. This ensures they will be properly tightened.
Learning how to install a Sioux Chief shower drain is surprisingly straightforward. Even if you don’t have a ton of experience with shower drain installation work, there’s a good chance that you can handle everything this particular DIY project can throw at you. However, if you have serious doubts as to whether or not you can tackle this project, remember that this is a project covered by most professional plumbers.
Nonetheless, if you decide to take on the job, there are a few things you will want to remember.
Installing A Sioux Chief Shower Drain
Keep in mind that these installation instructions are for the 825 Series Shower Drain:
• These drains are utilized alongside fiberglass shower bases or 1-piece shower products. • Begin by separating the drain into your top (male threads/strainer) and bottoms (female heads/glue hub/washers) portions. • After applying a bead of silicone to your underside of your top portion, place your drain hole into your shower base. • Underneath your shower, establish your black rubber sealing washer, then friction washer, then your bottom portion over your male threads. After tightening, you should be ready for the next step. Remember that your friction washers are designed to protect your rubber from damages, while your bottom portion is threaded on/tightened up. • At the top side of your shower, take away all excess silicone that has been squeezed out. Your fiberglass sandwich base is established between your top portion (male thread) and your bottom portion. The sealing washer, which can be found underside, along with silicone sealant that has been applied to between your shower floor and your top portion, will keep the drains water tight. • Next, you’re going to work at solvent welding the drain pipe into your hub, in your bottom portion. This is something you are obviously going to want to do with the right solvent cement. • You’re going to want to wait a minimum of twenty-four hours for your silicone to cure properly. After the cure period has passed, you will want to inspect your finished result for any potential leaks.
These are the steps involved with installing the 825 Series Shower Drain. Keep in mind that there are different examples of Sioux Chief shower drains on the market. To that end, if you find yourself working with anything other than the 825, you will want to make sure you have the appropriate instructions for installing the shower drain properly.
When we think about everything downspout drains are responsible for, it’s easy to appreciate why special care should be taken with their installation. This is definitely a DIY plumbing task that is best suited for those who at least have moderate experience with plumbing DIY projects. If you have any doubts about that, don’t worry. In the end, calling the professionals is always the right way to go. The most important thing is that it is installed correctly the first time around.
However, if you believe your experience is up to the task, there are several things you will want to keep in mind.
Downspout Drain Installation Tips
Downspouts are used to carry excess water from homes and roofs to appropriate disposal areas. These areas can be gutters, or even ravines. While the work involved in installing downspout drains is ultimately pretty straightforward, we suggest moderate prior experience for the simple fact that there are a lot of easy mistakes to watch out for.
Here are 3 important tips for dealing with such potential pitfalls:
1. Avoiding negative pitches. This is one of the most common mistakes people make with downspouts. Pipes shift, and water can flow in the wrong direction. You may not notice this straight away, but it can cause serious damage to your home/foundation over many years. Installing this pipe at least five feet from the foundation of the home is a good way to avoid this problem.
2. Building the pipe on solid ground. Laying downspout pipes along hollow areas of dirt can be quite problematic. Over time, dirt that piles up can start putting pressure on the pipes. Since the pipes aren’t designed to deal with a lot of weight and pressure, it isn’t going to take long for cracking or breaking to occur. To that end, make sure to test the ground out beforehand. Make sure you’re dealing with solid ground.
3. Don’t bury the pipe too deep. Burying a pipe deep in the ground makes sense. However, there is also such a thing as burying the pipe too deep. This can cause a lot of problems later on, if you need to access the pipes to make important repairs. Measuring the distance/elevation change needed for the downspout pipe is something that must be done very carefully. Some prefer to install their pipes in reverse, which means you would begin your work from what will eventually become the discharge point.
Homes or properties that have basements will be vulnerable to water pooling. Groundwater can seep into the foundations, rainwater or water runoff from any nearby source can also inundate or flood the basement. Properties in low lying areas are particularly vulnerable since the natural slope of the area owing to the topography will facilitate water pouring in from one or more sides and that will lead to standing water in and around a property. Usually, a property has a few problem areas. If the entire property is inundated then the entire drainage is faulty. For specific areas that are at risk of being flooded or inundated to varying extents, a French drain can be the perfect remedy.
French drain is a rather simple solution. It is not an expensive remedy, it doesn’t require any alteration to your home and it can be installed in and around most types of properties. You do have to invest substantial time and effort though. A French drain is simply an outlet for water to be pumped or drawn out from a problem area to somewhere beyond the premises. A French drain can lead to the roadside sewer lines or city drains. It can lead to nearby low lying areas or just outside the premise of a property. A French drain doesn’t have a pump or any such mechanism. It can have one but the traditional design simply uses gravity and a channel to draw water out of an area that is prone to flooding or standing water.
Quintessential Requisites for a French Drain
Installing a French drain will require several tools and materials, including exterior screws, pressure treated pine, lag bolts, galvanized fender washers, pine planks, drills, measuring tape, spray paint for landscape marking, shovel, cement, a tub to mix the cement, pencil, saw, wrench, torpedo level, hammer, speed square, screw swing, bushing, sanding pads, orbital sander, paint, roller handle, paint pan and painter’s tape, heavy-duty nylon rope and utility knife. In addition to the drainpipes, you would need gravel and filter fabric.
The Depth of a French Drain
There are a three significant attributes of a French drain. It must be impregnable and reliable so it can continue to function as it should. The drain must not interfere with any existing structure in and around the property. It should be completely free from internal or external influence and should not influence any fixture such as cable or pipe anywhere. The third element is the most important. The drain must have a slope or gradient. Unless there is a significant slope or gradient, water wouldn’t flow out. This gradient can be provided naturally if the property has low lying areas around it. The same slope will have to be created if a property is in a low lying place and the grounds nearby are elevated. The solution is a trench that is deep enough to allow gravity to work its magic.
Before you dig the trench, you should measure the elevation of the ground and study if there is a natural slope leading outward and downward from the property. If this is the case then the French drain can be six inches wide and you can aim for a depth of a foot or a feet and a half. You may aim for a depth of two feet if you want the drain to be more reliable. The deeper a drain, the more resistant it is to damage caused by weather and external factors. If you have a scenario where the house is pretty much in a low lying area then you have to dig a deeper trench. You must go beyond the two feet and perhaps you have to go five feet deep depending on where you are leading the water to and whether or not the drain has a consistent downward slope away from the house or the problem area of the property.
Depth of 2 Feet to 5 Feet
To sum it up, you can easily do with a foot of depth if your property is relatively on high ground or even at leveled ground. You should go for two feet if the basement is lower into the ground than usual or if you have two or larger levels underground. You should go for three feet to five feet if you don’t find the right gradient. It should be remembered that water doesn’t flow out smoothly and completely unless there is a significant slope at the problem area. You can go for a gradual slope once the drain leads away from the property. Right at the property or around you would need a significant slope. This is tricky because you have to keep going deeper as you move away. Any reversal of the slope or gradient will lead to water pooling inside the drainpipe, which is not what you want.
Installing a shower drain in a basement can seem like a difficult task, before you even begin to do the research on what will be required of you. The truth of the matter is that installing a shower drain can be an extremely straightforward project. On the DIY scale, in terms of difficulty, we would put it somewhere near the middle. If you have some basic DIY plumbing experience, then there is a good chance that you can handle a project such as this. There are several considerations that you will need to keep in mind.
Installing A Shower Drain In A Basement
When it comes to installing plumbing fixtures at what is likely the lowest point of your house, here are a few things virtually all homeowners need to keep in mind:
Gravity: It is gravity that sends water from upstairs drain pipes moving down to your main sewer line. With a basement drainpipe, you have something that exists on the same level as your main sewer line. To that end, you want to make sure your drain pipes are graded properly, which ensures proper flow.
Trench: Remember that if you are going to install a shower drain in the basement, the concrete floor surrounding your main sewer lines must be broken up, and then moved aside. You have to be able to dig a trench.
Concrete Construction: If concrete construction of any kind is absolutely out of the question, remember that there are toilets and pumps that can send wastewater straight up.
The Trap: Remember that you are going to need to have space enough to set up your trap. This is the short, U-shaped pipe that can be found under the sink and shower drains. These are designed to keep hairs, sediment, and a range of valuables from getting so far down the drain, they form inaccessible clogs. At the same time, traps also provide a crucial measure of protection against sewer gases. In order to accommodate this important pipe, you will need to dig a deeper.
Ventilation: It stands to reason that your plumbing system also features vents. Remember that you are going to need to take into account the ventilation needs of any new plumbing system you are planning to install in your basement. This includes plumbing fixtures, basement toilets, sinks, and even if you are planning to only install a new shower.
Planning: Pulling off this task often comes down to lots of careful planning. Consider consulting a plumber, as well.
A French drain is a quintessential fixture for any basement that is prone to flooding or water pooling. A French drain can remove water from the basement floor through a trench and perforated pipe to the sump pump or the basin outside the property. The name of this drain is not inspired by the country but Henry French who made the solution popular. Before you can install a French drain in basement floor, you should have the basin, the sump pump and exterior drainage ready. It is also recommended to get some professional help as digging into the foundation of a property can be a tricky task for anyone who is not experienced enough.
Begin With a Detailed Plan.
You should have the path of the drain mapped out and plotted. You should use the blueprint of your home for this purpose. The drain will have to be at least a foot away from the exterior wall of the basement. The drain should also be in the most vulnerable area where water stagnation is the most serious. There should be a basin where the water will get accumulated. You can choose to install this basin in the basement itself or it can be outside. If natural sloping allows you to extract water from the basement floor to somewhere outside then the basin can be there and the sump pump can get into action.
You Need to Dig a Trench Along the Path Where You Want the Drain to be Installed.
The train needs to be as wide and deep as is desired for optimum effect. If your basement is too vulnerable and the water pooling is very serious then the trench should be wider than eight inches and deeper than eighteen inches. Do not get started with the trench if you are unsure of your skills. You will need a jackhammer and a pickaxe to get the job done. You must grade the trench so it has a natural slope towards the basin. You must have this slope as otherwise water accumulation will not be affected at all. The sump pump gets into action at the basin. There is nothing but gravity to draw the water from the basement to the basin.
Take the Pipe and Place it Into the Trench.
The perforations must face down. Connect the pipe to the basin. Cover the trend with gravel and any other special material you may have been recommended. The trench should be sealed with cement.
What used to be a job for the plumber is now something that the average homeowner can do themselves in a short period of time. Since overflow drains and piping come in plastic, they are easier to work with and you can manage the work without all of the expense of having a professional come to your home. Installing a tub overflow train is easy if you follow these steps.
Pick Out Your New Overflow Drain.
This is a personal decision, as overflow drains now come in a variety of colors and finishes. You may prefer to match it to the type of trim that you have around the drain in the tub or around your home. Finishes such as matching colors, brass, or chrome are all readily available for you to purchase and to install.
Buy Any Necessary Additional Materials.
It’s doubtful that you will have all of the other necessary materials laying around your home, but if you do, you can skip this step. Otherwise you’ll need to make a quick trip to your local hardware or home improvement store to pick up the following items: Teflon pipe dope, p-trap, tail pipe, and extension pipe. You can find these easily in the plumbing section, and most major stores will carry them for a good price.
Check Access and Cut the Hole.
If necessary, you will need to cut a hole to be able to access your rub. You’ll want it to be big enough to work through, but not so large that repairs after the fact take a long time.
Remove Old Overflow Tub Drain.
Remove your old tub drain by either unclipping it or unscrewing it from the piping. You’ll need a screwdriver to be able to do this easily.
Install New Piping.
Your new piping that you have purchased will be installed now. Using Teflon tape will prevent any future leaks. Apply the Teflon paste to the overflow at the top and then tighten bolts and test the seal.
Fill Your Tub and Close the Hole.
You have to test your tub for leaks by filling it with water. Once you are sure that your work is watertight you can close up the hole either with spackle or a removable door to ensure access at a later time.
Congratulations! You successfully changed the overflow drain on your bathtub. Use WD-40 if you are unable to remove the drain pipe, and put up some fresh paint over your spackle, and you are done.
Having a floor drain in the garage or in your basement can come in handy for quick cleanup if you have spilled any water or if the area is prone to flooding. This can also come in handy for when it’s too cold to wash something outdoors and you prefer to do it inside and then want to simply push the water toward the drain to clean your space. Don’t call a general contractor or handyman to install this for you – it’s simple and with the right tools you can handle it yourself.
Prepare Your Space.
While it’s easiest to install a floor drain prior to pouring your cement, you can do it after the floor has been set. Decide what kind of materials you will have entering the drain and if you need and special permits for hazardous materials. If you will have just water entering the drain you can connect it to your sewer or septic system.
New floors are easier to plan, as you can lay out the pipes in place and then install the floor over top. Use a trap to make sure that cleaning your drain is as easy as possible. If you have an existing floor you will need to break through the concrete to install the pipes using heavy machinery.
Always call to have your utilities marked before doing any digging so you don’t accidentally hit a line. You can dig by hand or with a backhoe to create a trench for the pipe from the drain to lay in. Lay your piping and attach to your septic or sewer.
Pour New Concrete.
Make sure you place a can upside down over where you want your drain to be so that you don’t accidentally concrete over it. A coffee can works great for this. Mix your concrete and smooth it with a trowel. Make sure you bevel the area around the drain spot so that the water won’t pool and will instead easily drain into it.
Add a Drain Cover.
This is the final step and quite easy to do. Remove the coffee can from the concrete once it has set and add a trap and drain cover to complete your work.
Now you are ready for anything that life throws at you! If you have taken your time to guarantee a smooth finish on the concrete and a beveled edge around the actual drain then you should have no problems with standing water on your new floor.